Art Factory Hostel Blog

Restaurant at Defensa 855, San Telmo

I wandered around lovely, artsy San Telmo this morning and early afternoon, developing an appetite. I finally decided on El Desnivel, which was recommended by the hostel where I’m staying. I wasn’t disappointed.

Plenty of meat was on offer, but rather than what you might think of as typical Argentine cuisine, El Desnivel is Italian-influenced. The pastas are therefore the cheapest dishes on the menu. I looked around the hour and a half I was there and no one ordered any pasta. Meat, meat, meat was the rule. I ordered a stuffed beef roll with mashed potatos and enjoyed it quite a bit. I also “slurged” on a half-litre of serviceable house red, and a basic salad. With tip, I paid just over 14 USD, more than I might have paid in Prague or in Chicago for a typical meal, but filling and very tasty.

By the time I left, El Desnivel was full up with locals and a smattering of English-speaking tourists. There’s a garden out back. Service is slow-ish, as is typical here, I gather, but friendly and efficient.

After all that wine, even after having to ask for la cuenta (the check) twice, I could only say to myself:

Nice people. Good food. I like it here.

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